Eat, Play, Live in Greenville, South Carolina

Gateway to the Blue Ridge Mountains
By Carolyn Burns Bass

Where Southern Charm Meets Mountain Majesty

Greenville combines history, culture, and culinary delights with year-around outdoor adventure.

It may be the biggest little city you’ll ever love. In terms of population, Greenville, South Carolina doesn’t near six digits, but that’s a win for those looking for big city vibes in a small footprint. Nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, you can practically taste the woodsy aroma of pine and hardwoods as you stroll through its charming downtown.

Effortlessly blending the gentility of the South with the forward-thinking energy of a city on the rise, Greenville is a place where families picnic in the park, artists find community, chefs push boundaries, and visitors feel like locals by the end of their stay. It’s the kind of town you never want to leave.

AUTHOR’S NOTE: On my first visit to Greenville in 2015, I was randomly walking downtown when I came across the mayor of the small North Carolina town in which I live. After exchanging greetings, he told me he was there along with a group of other small-town mayors to study Greenville as a positive example of urban revitalization.The story of Greenville’s rise from a dying mill town suffering from human inequity, polluted waterways, and irrelevance, into a city people are proud to call home has become a case history in urban revitalization. Pausing to read the many placards and monuments throughout town gives visitors a genuine sense of recognition for humanity’s past missteps in the town’s yesterdays though its respect toward its tomorrows.

The downtown is walkable, with tree-lined streets and charming brick stores, galleries, and eateries calling out from each side of Main Street. It’s that seamless blend of old and new, serenity and vibrance that lends Greenville a mid-century postcard charm with millennium-era vibes.   along with the  Plus, it’s not unusual to see bowls of fresh water set out for canine visitors walking with their people.

If the previous paragraphs haven’t yet whispered the word “bucolic,” just wait. Greenville has a river and waterfall flowing right through the center of town. Once hidden by a freeway overpass, the waters so polluted by the textile mills, the Reedy River and the park surrounding the falls now showcase this urban oasis. An elegant pedestrian bridge spans the cascading waters, offering stunning views up and down river.

Soby's New South Cuisine offers Southern comfort food with innovative appeal such as this black truffle and parmesan grits, braised local greens, guanciale, gremolata, with rosemary jus. Photo: Carolyn Burns Bass

Let’s Talk About Food

Food is a common denominator among humans and Greenville recognized this when revitalizing its livability in the early years of the new millenium. Since then foodies have made Greenville a culinary destination where innovative food and culture combine. The city’s zesty food scene, rooted in Southern traditions but open to global influence, is led by some of the Southeast’s most exciting kitchens.

At the forefront of the Greenville food scene is Soby’s New South Cuisine, a downtown staple housed in a restored 1800s cotton mill. Opened in 1997 by restaurateur Carl Sobocinski, Soby’s helped spark Greenville’s culinary revival. Soby’s New South Cuisine carries the torch with dishes like shrimp and grits and fried green tomatoes, infusing classic Southern comfort food with sophisticated flair. Sobocinsky’s Table 301 group now operates six award-winning restaurants in and around Greenville.

Another standout is The Anchorage, located in the West Village arts district. Led by James Beard-nominated chef Greg McPhee, the menu highlights seasonal produce from local farms, with creative small plates that change by season and availability. The Anchorage has become a hub for thoughtful, ingredient-driven dining.

Jianna, a sleek, modern Italian restaurant overlooking Falls Park, blends bold design with the culinary vision of chef Michael Kramer. A veteran of award-winning kitchens from California to Texas, Kramer brings handmade pastas, fresh seafood, and a celebrated oyster bar to the heart of downtown. His house-made burrata and cacio e pepe are local favorites.

Looking for brews and pub food? Check out Southernside Brewing Co., located along the Swamp Rabbit Trail next to Greenville’s Unity Park. The lively brewery and eatery offers a rotating selection of house-brewed IPAs, lagers, and seasonal beers, complemented by a full bar with craft cocktails, bourbons, and wines. A Southern-inspired menu rounds out the experience with elevated pub food. A family-friendly entertainment, you’ll find bowling lanes and an arcade, live music, and indoor and outdoor seating.

When you want a taste of everything, but not enough time to linger over each and every bite, you can take one of John Nolan’s Greenville History and Culinary Tours. Start with a breakfast tour, then maybe a walking tour of Falls Park or downtown Greenville, then nibble through the night with a BBQ trail tour, chef’s table, and more.

Lake Conestee Nature Preserve is a outdoor oasis only minutes from downtown Greenville.

Nature’s Playground: The Blue Ridge Connection

Greenville is an unofficial gateway to the Blue Ridge Mountains, which are visible from many spots in town and just a short drive away. Whether you’re into hiking, biking, or scenic drives, the options are endless.

The Swamp Rabbit Trail, a 22-mile greenway connecting Greenville to the nearby town of Travelers Rest, is a favorite among cyclists and joggers. It winds along the Reedy River, through parks, past art installations, and even into brewery courtyards.

Just minutes from downtown Greenville, Lake Conestee Nature Preserve offers over 400 acres of protected wetlands, forests, and meadows that serve as a haven for outdoor enthusiasts and wildlife lovers alike. This scenic escape features more than 13 miles of trails and boardwalks perfect for hiking, running, and birdwatching—earning it recognition as an Important Bird Area by the National Audubon Society. Visitors can explore peaceful creekside paths, spot herons and deer, or enjoy educational programs for all ages. Its close proximity to the city makes Lake Conestee an ideal destination for a nature-filled adventure without leaving Greenville’s backyard.

For more dramatic vistas, Caesars Head State Park and Table Rock State Park offer breathtaking overlooks and waterfall-laced trails. Autumn is an especially magical time, when the hills explode in a riot of red, orange, and gold—a visual symphony rivaling New England’s famous foliage.

Greenville's lively downtown scene offers shopping, dining, and hanging out in comfort.

A Walk Through History

Greenville’s story began centuries ago with the Cherokee people, who first inhabited the lush lands surrounding the Reedy River. European settlers arrived in the late 18th century, and by the 19th century, Greenville had become a prominent textile hub, earning the nickname “The Textile Center of the World.” The bones of that industrial legacy remain—old mills now house modern lofts, studios, and breweries, a testament to the city’s remarkable ability to honor its past while embracing the present.

Main Street, the heart of downtown Greenville, is an architectural collage of preserved buildings and modern designs. As you stroll beneath its tree-canopied sidewalks, you can spot placards that tell tales of yesteryear, from Civil War encampments to the city’s railroad boom. The city’s revitalization, spearheaded in the 1980s, is often heralded as a model for urban renewal across the U.S.

Greenville’s Upcountry History Museum offers visitors an engaging journey through the region’s rich and complex past. Affiliated with Furman University and part of the Smithsonian Institution Affiliations Program, the museum explores more than 300 years of Upstate South Carolina history—from Native American settlements and Revolutionary War battles to the rise of the textile industry that once defined the city.

Interactive exhibits, rotating special collections, and educational programs make the Upcountry History Museum a dynamic stop for families, students, and history buffs alike. Just minutes from downtown Greenville, the museum can be enjoyed in a single afternoon.

You can’t write about the South without recognizing the role African Americans played in the development of Southern life and culture. Greenville has taken meaningful steps to honor and recognize African American contributions to its cultural and historical fabric, most notably through the development of Unity Park, a public space intentionally designed to reflect the city’s diverse communities. Located on land that previously divided historically black and white neighborhoods, the park was built around Mayberry Park, once the home of Greenville’s Black Spinners segregated baseball team. Public art, historical markers, and community initiatives spotlight African American heritage throughout the city.

Greenville's public art adorns buildings, pops up in parks, and is expressed daily and with seasonal festivals.

Culture at Every Corner

Art lovers will feel right at home in Greenville. The city percolates with cultural institutions, including the Peace Center for the Performing Arts, which hosts Broadway shows, symphonies, and concerts. Just down the road, the Greenville County Museum of Art showcases works by American artists, with a special focus on Southern painters like Jasper Johns and Andrew Wyeth.

Public art is everywhere in Greenville—on building walls, in alleyways, and even on traffic signal boxes. The Artisphere festival, held each May, transforms the downtown into an open-air gallery, attracting artists and performers from across the nation.

For those seeking a more immersive experience, the South Carolina Children’s Theatre, Centre Stage, and Warehouse Theatre offer everything from classic plays to experimental productions, making Greenville a cultural powerhouse in the Carolinas.

Greenville knows how to throw a party, too. Its festival calendar is packed year-round, from spring to the frostier months. In the spring, Artisphere and the Greenville Jazz Fest fill the streets with creativity and rhythm. Even the weekly TD Saturday Market, held May through October, feels like a mini-festival. Local farmers, bakers, florists, and artisans set up along Main Street, inviting passersby to slow down and savor the season’s bounty.

Two of the South’s premier food festivals happen every fall in Greenville. Founded in 2015 by singer/songwriter Edwin McCain and chef Carl Sobocinsky, Euphoria, a food, wine, and music festival curated by local chefs and sommeliers, gives visitors a taste of the city’s growing culinary clout. One month later comes Fall for Greenville, where dozens of local restaurants offer sample-sized portions of their best dishes. Live music and beer tents make it a city-wide block party that spans several days.

 

Greenville's Grand Bohemian Hotel offers luxury with breathtaking views of the Falls Park.

Get to Greenville and Stay Awhile

What makes Greenville’s hotel scene stand out is not just the range of choices—but how closely each reflects the personality of the city itself. You can wake up to waterfall views in a luxury lodge (Grand Bohemian), unwind in a posh suite on a historic estate (Hotel Hartness), or enjoy skyline vistas from a trendy downtown rooftop (Embassy Suites). Whether your budget leans toward splurge or save, Greenville ensures your home base will be as thoughtfully crafted as the destination itself. Whether you’re coming for a romantic weekend, a cultural getaway, or a business retreat, Greenville’s hotels cater to every traveler’s style. For more details about specific hotels, take a look at our sidebar here.

Greenville is easily accessible via Greenville-Spartanburg International Airport (GSP), and its compact downtown is best explored on foot or by bike. Whether you’re visiting for a long weekend or using it as a base to explore the Blue Ridge Mountains, plan ahead—festival weekends and peak fall foliage can fill up fast.