Take it Easy in Winslow
Once the largest city of northern Arizona, Winslow became a hub for train passengers and road trippers visiting the Painted Desert, trading with the nearby Navajo and Hopi nations, viewing the breathtaking meteor crater only 20 miles away, or camping at the nearby Homolovi Ruins State Park.
Of all the towns dotting the western stretch of Interstate 40, Winslow, Arizona is truly a sight to see. It’s not a metropolis like Phoenix, nor an artsy spa haven like Sedona, or a cowboy corral like Tucson. It’s a town that refuses to surrender to obscurity, a brick and mortar reminder of what used to be and what still is.
Until the 1970s when Interstate 40 completed its asphalt artery connecting Chicago to Los Angeles, Route 66 was the favored way to motor from east to west. In his Pulitzer Prize winning novel, The Grapes of Wrath, John Steinbeck dubbed it The Mother Road. He featured it as a highway of hope for those escaping blistering hardships of the depression-era Dust Bowl. In 1946 Nat King Cole’s hit recording of “Get Your Kicks on Route 66” became a catchphrase that still bleeds into popular music, film and literature.
A Not Just Another Roadside Attraction
Winslow is among dozens of small towns dotting the map of Route 66 across the West offering traveler’s necessities and roadside attractions. Photo: Creative Commons
Travelers found a respite in the cafes and motels that catered to motorists along the Mother Road. As Route 66 zig-zagged from town to town it forged the easiest way for early motorcars to cross waterways and other potential roadblocks. Interstate 40 changed all that.
In its efficient swipe across the West, I-40 circumvented many of the little towns along Route 66. Towns fortunate enough to be on the path of I-40 continued to thrive. (The animated film Cars gave personalities to those who inhabit the little towns along Route 66. Comedic as those characters are, Cars is a poignant story about life in and out of the slow lane of life.)
Winslow could have been one of those towns, except I-40 ran beside it, ensuring the town’s survival in an age of change. Winslow, a prime stop for passenger trains, was already threatened as airliners flew overhead in greater frequency. By the time I-40 opened though Winslow, the town’s once bustling train depot was shuttered.
His official name is “Easy,” the balladier who stands on the corner with his guitar propped on his boot. Those in the know recognize the resemblance of a young Jackson Browne in the lifesize bronze statue. Look deep into the window on the wall behind Easy and you’ll see the reflection of a pretty girl slowing down to check him out. Photo: Carolyn Burns Bass
Standing on the Corner
In 1972 the rock band, the Eagles, put Winslow back on the pop culture highway with its hit song, “Take It Easy.” Written primarily by Jackson Browne, Glenn Frey’s contribution of some lyrics and his rousing vocals made the Eagles famous.
Now considered a classic in the canon of rock ’n’ roll, the lyrics reflect the impression of freewheeling youth. Here’s the phrase which pinned Winslow to the map of rock ‘n’ roll history.
Well, I’m standin’ on a corner in Winslow, Arizona
Such a fine sight to see;
It’s a girl, my Lord, in a flatbed Ford
Slowing down to take a look at me.
Winslow wisely plays homage to that iconic musical imagery. Standing right there on the corner of Route 66 (Second Street) and Kinsley Avenue stands a life-size bronze statue of a man resembling a young Jackson Browne, guitar propped on his boot. Completing the display called Standin’ On the Corner Park is a trompe-l’œil mural depicting the reflection of a foxy blonde in a flatbed Ford slowing down to take a look. Parked on the curb in relation to the reflection is a red, cherried-out flatbed Ford.
Glenn Frey, a founding member and lead vocalist of the Eagles now has a lifesized statue in Winslow’s Standin’ on the Corner park. Photo: Creative Commons
The statute was commissioned in 1994 by the Standin’ On The Corner Foundation (formerly La Posada Foundation), a non-profit community revitalization organization. Sculptor Ron Adamson won the commission for the life-size statue, while artist John Pugh took the spot for the trompe l’oeil mural that illustrates the song on the wall behind the statue.
In 2016 the SOTC foundation unveiled a memorial statue of the late Glenn Frey, who voiced the Eagles hit and died earlier that year. The life-size bronze statue stands against a light pole near the same corner.
Hundreds of tourists pull off the interstate each day to drive down the famous streets of Winslow, hoping for a taste of small town cachet made famous by the song. Along with several other civic improvements, this nod to pop culture laid a foundation to Winslow’s revitalization.
The Resting Place
Still, it’s no falsehood that Winslow has enjoyed better days; days when the railroad stopped at the depot on Second Street and passengers stepped off the train for refreshment. Many of them stayed overnight in the luxurious La Posada Hotel, or “resting place,” built by legendary railroad hotelier Fred Harvey. Harvey worked with renowned architect Mary Colter to design many of the Mission and Spanish Colonial Revival hotels and depots across the United States, including La Posada.
Harvey could easily be called the father of the chain restaurant. Back when food could be iffy from town to town along the rails, the boilerplate menus at Harvey House restaurants, cafes, and snack bars offered travelers familiar food made with standard recipes. Travelers grew to trust Harvey House eateries and the first restaurant brand was born.
La Posada Hotel and Gardens was opened in 1930 by the Fred Harvey company of restaurants and hotels set near train depots and along major highway routes. Photo: Kent Kanouse
La Posada opened in 1930 and was said to be the gem of the Harvey chain. Colter blended Native American and Spanish influences into a desert oasis where movie stars and celebrities sought solace when traveling across the continent. As automobiles took over the highways and rail travel gave way to air, La Posada declined, closing in 1957 to become offices for the Santa Fe Railroad.
The Santa Fe Railroad pulled out in the early 1990s, leaving the historic building in shambles. The grande dame of the desert would have been leveled had it not been for the citizens of Winslow, the National Trust for Historic Preservation, and a Southern California businessman and architect. Allan Affeldt and his artist wife Tina Mion bought the legendary hotel building and spent $12 million restoring the property to its once luxurious grandeur. La Posada, with rooms as posh as anything you’d find in a name-brand hotel, blends boutique sensibilities with historic charm.
Fine and affordable dining was expected in the Harvey hotels of the grand railroad era. In its day, La Posada boasted a fine dining room and saw luminaries of stage and screen enjoy sumptuous meals while overnighting at the hotel. The new La Posada hasn’t overlooked this. Named after the famed Turquoise Rooms aboard the Santa Fe Railroad Super Chief deluxe trains that ran in between Chicago and Los Angeles, the décor reflects that grandeur.
The Turquoise Room at the legendary La Posada Hotel was designed in homage to the great Turquoise Room dining cars on each Santa Fe Super Chief train. Photo: Jim Buckley
John Sharpe, a twice-nominated James Beard Foundation chef opened the Turquoise Room and carved a reputation for innovative interpretations of regional and railroad classics. Sharpe retired in 2020, but you’ll still find his influence in such specialties as Navajo Churro lamb to Fred Harvey Boilerman breakfasts. The Turquoise room is open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as offering a traveler’s menu for quick-fixes while on the road.
In 2016 the Winslow Arts Trust acquired one of the retired Pleasure Dome cars from an old Super Chief train and moved it to La Posada for restoration. In recent years a number of original pieces of Pleasure Dome furniture has been installed in an effort to restore the car to its original glory.
While Amtrak passenger service stops in Winslow, the unmanned boarding platform and shelter adjacent to La Posada is a far cry from the comfort and convenience of the former depot.
The Santa Fe Railroad Super Chief featured Pleasure Dome lounge cars with a Turquoise Room on each of its trains. Santa Fe’s catchphrase was, “Santa Fe, all the way!”
Other Ways to Enjoy This Desert Oasis
A walk along the Sixth Street Pathway features static displays of railroad memorabilia and other exhibits of the railroad-era. Photo: Jim Buckley
Winslow offers another tribute to the golden age of road and train travel with its First Street Pathway. This six-block walkway through the La Posada Historic District is a charming passage through historic and cultural displays that illustrate Winslow’s importance in the age of rail and roadways.
Winslow was once the largest city of northern Arizona. Road trippers stopped over to explore the Painted Desert, trade with the nearby Navajo and Hopi nations, view the breathtaking meteor crater only 20 miles away, or camp at the nearby Homolovi Ruins State Park.
These attractions and more await travelers not hurried along the interstate. Those interested in western history will find artifacts and memorabilia relating to Winslow, Route 66 and northern Arizona in Winslow’s The Old Trails Museum. Adventure seekers can enjoy a wide array of outdoor activities, including the nearby Clear Creek, a crystal blue ribbon of water surrounded by red clay walls. Clear Creek offers canoeing, fishing, swimming and picnicking.
Downtown Winslow features car shows, road rallies, and art and musical festivals all year long. Photo: Jim Buckley
The terrain surrounding Winslow is perfect for hiking, desert exploration in and out of the ruins, along the creek, or hunting for artifacts along the stretches of railroad. The Navajo Reservation north of Winslow is rife with prehistoric cliff dwellings, while explorers can find ancient pueblo villages on the Hopi Reservation.
Route 66 is host to hundreds of road rallies each year, from Model Ts, to classic muscle cars, to all kinds of two and three wheelers, motored or not. Winslow’s position along the Mother Road and proximity to I-40 has secured its place in history, but along with that is the warm welcome offered by town residents.
When was the last time you took a road trip where you didn’t rush to your destination? Perhaps it’s time for you to take it easy; to retreat to a time and a place where the speedy nature of 21st century life is eased by unhurried living.
More Things to Do Near Winslow
The Painted Desert
Once inhabited by several Native American tribes, the Painted Desert in Arizona is a natural wonder characterized by its vibrant and colorful landscape. Just a few miles off the highway from Winslow, the Painted Desert covers an area of over 93,500 acres, and it is a part of the larger Petrified Forest National Park.
Rainbow-like colors of sedimentary rock formations make up the landscape. These colors range from shades of pink, red, orange, and purple, and they change throughout the day depending on the angle of the sun. The rock formations were formed millions of years ago from layers of shale, sandstone, and limestone.
Visitors to the Painted Desert can take in the stunning scenery by driving along the scenic loop road that runs through the park. Along the way, visitors can stop at several overlooks to take in the panoramic views of the desert.
The Painted Desert Inn, a historic landmark and museum, is also located along the loop road. The original 1920 building from was made of petrified wood. Today’s adobe facade dates to the 1930s renovation of the Painted Desert Inn in which architect Mary Colter contributed. The inn offers a glimpse into the area’s rich cultural history.
The park offers several hiking trails that allow visitors to explore the desert’s stunning landscape. Along several of the trails, hikers can view petroglyphs and even fossilized dinosaur tracks.
Photo: James St. John
Homolovi State Park
Homolovi State Park is located in the high desert of Northern Arizona, and is home to some of the most significant archaeological sites in the region.
The park’s name is derived from the Hopi word “Homolovi,” which means “place of the little hills.” Spread across more than 4,000 acres, the park includes the remains of 7 prehistoric villages. These villages were once inhabited by the Ancestral Puebloans, who lived in the area between 1260 and 1400 AD.
Visitors to Homolovi State Park can explore the ancient villages and see the remains of various structures such as kivas, pit houses, and adobe walls.
Several hiking trails that offer visitors the opportunity to explore the ruins and the surrounding landscape. Birdwatchers appreciate the diversity of birds, including the Harris’s hawk, the prairie falcon, and the golden eagle. At night, the park’s dark skies provide an excellent opportunity to observe the stars and the Milky Way.
Whether you’re interested in hiking, birdwatching, stargazing, or simply exploring the ruins, Homolovi State Park is an excellent destination to add to your travel itinerary. The park also features a visitor center with informaton for the park’s history, geology, and archaeology.
Photo: Tabby Blake
Meteor Crater and Barringer Space Museum
The Meteor Crater Barringer sits like a giant ulcer in the Northern Arizona desert. Formed approximately 50,000 years ago when a meteorite weighing several hundred thousand tons collided with the earth’s surface at a speed of approximately 40,000 miles per hour, the impact left a crater measuring 4,000 feet in diameter, and nearly 600 feet deep.
The crater is so large that it can be seen from space, and the impact it created was so powerful that it released energy equivalent to several million tons of TNT. The crater also provides scientists with an excellent opportunity to study impact craters and learn more about the geology of our planet and the universe.
Today, Meteor Crater Barringer is a popular tourist destination, and visitors can take a guided tour of the crater’s rim and learn more about its history and geology. The visitor center and museum features interactive exhibits and displays that provide visitors with a better understanding of the crater’s impact and its importance to science.
The crater is named after Daniel Moreau Barringer, who was the first person to suggest that it was created by a meteorite impact. A mining engineer, Berringer became interested in the crater in the early 1900s and spent the rest of his life studying it.
In addition to its scientific importance, Meteor Crater Barringer is another wondrous sight to behold near Winslow. The surrounding landscape is dotted with mesas and canyons and definitely worth a side trip on a Route 66 journey.
Photo: Kevin Walsh
